Il libro della settimana
di Anna Trapani
MARCELLA CROCE, Guida ai sapori perduti. Storie e segreti del cibo siciliano con quaranta antiche ricette, Gruppo editoriale Kalòs, Palermo, 2008, pp.222
Non è un libro di ricette; non è una guida gastronomica per fare più ricco il pranzo di Natale o il cenone di San Silvestro; non è una “antologia” di antiche ricette siciliane saltate fuori dalla memoria di qualche nonna o arzilla vecchietta di campagna. L’ultima pubblicazione di Marcella Croce, nota studiosa e scrittrice palermitana da sempre impegnata sul fronte delle antiche tradizioni popolari nonché autrice del saggio “Oltre il chador. Iran in bianco e nero” che lo scorso anno ha vinto il primo Premio di scrittura femminile “Il paese delle donne” ed è nato dalla sua permanenza in quel paese per due anni per conto del Ministero degli Esteri in qualità di docente di italiano all’Università di Isfahan, è uno studio, una attenta ricerca della storia, della cultura e delle tradizioni di una terra, la Sicilia, e dei suoi abitanti attraverso il cibo nelle varie sfaccettature. Da un’ottica etnoantropologica l’autrice prende in esame il cibo (e non le ricette) per portare alla luce usi, costumi, linguaggi, tutto ciò che diviene cultura o tradizione di un popolo attraverso i secoli e forse i millenni, attraverso le dominazioni subite dai greci e romani prima, agli arabi dopo, senza dimenticare normanni, angioini, spagnoli. Il cibo può essere un modo eccellente per “leggere” un popolo e la sua storia. Non meno dell’arte o della scienza lascia traccia notevole nella vita quotidiana e nel sapere “dotto” o contadino, nel vivere degli aristocratici o dei borghesi. Le ricette sono un prodotto di tutto ciò ma a monte c’è il “materiale grezzo” che la natura offre. Come un popolo “modella” questo materiale racconta tanto della sua storia. Ecco perché Croce offre al lettore ben quaranta ricette antiche molte delle quali quasi scomparse, sconosciute agli stessi siciliani. Viene messo in evidenza nel libro come la Sicilia, isola al centro del Mediterraneo (mare, un tempo, ben più importante, strategico di oggi per i commerci o per la dominazione di una nazione sull’altra), nasconda dentro di sé altre isole, microcosmi talvolta sconosciuti l’uno all’altro: spesso, a pochi chilometri di distanza, la stessa qualità di verdura, ad esempio, è chiamata in modo diverso oppure, al contrario, un determinato alimento è abitualmente usato in una località ed è assolutamente sconosciuto altrove. Ancora: in un quartiere soltanto e, perché no, in un panificio o pasticceria solamente si può trovare quel determinato tipo di pane o dolce. Un paio di esempi. A Partinico, in provincia di Palermo, solo nella frazione Parrini si trova il pane vota e svota (gira e rigira). La sua peculiarità consiste nell’essere cavo. La lattuga alata a Ragalna prende il nome di scursunara, a Nicolosi di erba-scursuni, a Zafferana pisciacunigghiu, a Bronte guttaru, a Maletto virinella, ecc. eppure siamo sempre nel catanese. La natura montuosa dell’interno del territorio e la mancanza di strade per tanto tempo hanno favorito l’isolamento pure gastronomico. Cibi di mare e cibi di terra, cibi spontanei e derivati del grano, cibo di strada e pani sacri, mercati famosi e altrettanto famosi agrumeti, dolci noti ovunque e altri di cui si è quasi persa la memoria, gelati prelibati che vantano paternità altolocata. Nei capitoli in cui è diviso il libro le particolarità non mancano. Croce introduce ogni argomento con un proverbio o la frase di un intellettuale contemporaneo (Sciascia) o dell’antichità (Omero, l’abate Giovanni Meli, Ateneo di Naucrati, ecc.) e il discorso prende così le mosse tra ieri e oggi, tra come è nata una tradizione culinaria, una abitudine alimentare, una ricetta e come si perpetua nei secoli oppure si sta perdendo perché nessuno più ricorda o sa fare ciò che si faceva un tempo. Vengono fuori le tante macroscopiche differenze alimentari tra la Sicilia che ha il pesce come cibo principale e quella interna contadina e dedita all’allevamento. Senza nulla togliere, naturalmente, alle contaminazioni avvenute e che sempre avverranno. La pesca del tonno rosso, vero gigante del mare, che passa nel mese di maggio vicino alla Sicilia, era un tempo fondamentale nella dieta ma ora il pescato è enormemente diminuito e la mattanza è quasi un ricordo come le grida del raìs (capo della tonnara, dall’arabo “signore”) poiché l’ultima tonnara in attività, quella di Favignana, non sempre lavora. Polpette di tonno, bottarga e salame di tonno o suppizzata sono una vera bontà. Ma chi volesse sapere da quanto i siciliani mangiano tunnina (tonno, in siciliano prende il genere femminile) basta che guardino al Museo Mandralisca di Cefalù lo splendido cratere del venditore di tonno datato IV secolo A. C. Restando nell’antichità l’autrice tratta anche del “garum”, una salsa considerata ottima da greci, fenici e romani e che si produceva pure in Sicilia ponendo il pesce a macerare sotto il sole in ampie vasche. I marsalesi di oggi gradiscono molto pesci piccoli e colorati chiamati in italiano donzelle e in siciliano pisci rè (pesce del re) oppure minchia di re. La denominazione, diciamo così inadeguata, potrebbe derivare dalla caratteristica del pesce: l’inversione sessuale. Gli intenditori sostengono che sia più saporito in “versione” femminile. Troppo conosciuta per soffermarsi la famosa pasta con le sarde tipica di Palermo ma “adottata” in tutta l’isola. Chi conosce lo zuzzu alzi la mano. Siamo passati alla carne e ai suoi derivati. Infatti lo zuzzu, considerato una prelibatezza a Catania e provincia, è ottenuto dai residui della lavorazione del maiale in gelatina. Impossibile non citare il suino nero dei Nebrodi allevato allo stato semibrado. La sua carne è meno grassa del normale maiale di allevamento. Da provare il salame. Chi volesse può trovare anche le testine di agnello, per esempio al mercato palermitano di Ballarò. I macellai, chiamati in Sicilia carnezzieri (retaggio spagnolo), le espongono in specie nei mercati storici in un tripudio di colori e odori. Gli involtini alla siciliana, l’aggrassatu, il falsomagro arrivato nella Trinacria, secondo alcuni, insieme agli Angiò, fanno la felicità dei buongustai. Come le stigghiole. Possono essere considerate un cibo di strada poiché vengono arrostite in banchetti ambulanti. L’odore è forte e pungente. Una parte dell’intestino chiamato ziniero, dopo la pulitura, viene intrecciato e arrostito attorno a uno spiedo talvolta ottenuto dalle cime verdi delle cipolle. Il capitolo dolci che Marcella Croce ci presenta è un mondo a parte e necessiterebbe di una trattazione a se stante. Ci limiteremo a citare le ossa di morti a forma di tibia, le minne di vergine forse inventate a Catania in onore di Sant’Agata, patrona della città, martirizzata con l’asportazione delle mammelle, le lingue di suocera, i biscotti tetù usati un tempo nelle feste di fidanzamento, le statuine di zucchero chiamate pupi a cena tipiche della Festa dei Morti e la notissima cassata. In generale tanti dolci siciliani hanno origine conventuale: le monache erano maestre nell’arte della pasticceria e vendevano dai monasteri di clausura attraverso al “ruota” le loro creazioni. Poiché il libro contiene quaranta ricette vogliamo chiudere con una di esse, di sicuro tra le meno note anche ai siciliani: cotolette di bucce di fichidindia.
Ingredienti: bucce di ficodindia, uova, pangrattato, olio d’oliva, pepe, sale. Procedimento: lavate le bucce di ficodindia e togliete con un coltello il sottile strato ceroso esterno. Sbattete le uova e impanate le bucce intere con uovo e pangrattato. Saltatele in padella con olio d’oliva abbondante, aggiungendo sale e pepe nero a piacere. Servite ben caldeVi preoccupate per le spine? Tranquilli, come per miracolo non ne troverete più traccia. Ovviamente il libro offre tantissimi argomenti e cibi di cui trattare ma una recensione non può essere esaustiva quindi per curiosità o ricette si accettano richieste.
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I find myself coming to your blog more and more often to the point where my visits are almost daily now!
Wow!, this was a top quality post. In theory I’d like to write like this too - taking time and real effort to make a good article… but what can I say… I procrastinate a lot and never seem to get something done
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This is a nice blog i must say, usually i don¡¯t post comments on others¡¯ blogs but would like to say that this post really forced me to do so!
Grazie per tuo storia! Ho apprezzato veramente, considerando che l’apparecchio mi ha saputo di essi cose che non conoscevo non. Proprio interressant.
This is a subject close to my heart cheers, do you have a RSS feed I can use?
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Where I live we have a great deal of getaway owners - So we were hit very hard with the real estate down turn
Ideas muy utiles. Hay que seguir los consejos de este blog! Muchas Gracias!
Thank you sur tone histoire! I apprecié really, comme il has me eu the opportunity of savoir les things quels I knew ne not. Really interressant.
Merci sur cette colonne, le module thème m’a vraiment plein interessé. Grace à l’intérieur de cette l’histoire j’ai extrêmement eu l’opportunité de savoir signifiant nouvelles choses quels je ne savais ne pas. Merci, bravo mais respect.
Grazia a questo scrive ho sensibilmente appresi di nuove cose quale non sapevo non . Grazie, applauso e così rispetto.
Danke für das Artikel, dies Gebiet hat mich interessé in wahrheit viel. Grace in dies Waren habe ich neuste Sachen entscheident gelernt, ihre ich mitnichten kannte. Danke, bravo sowie Respekt.
It was some good information that you posted.
Grand merci pour ce courrier, ce contenu m’a réellement immensément interessé. Grace à cette colonne j’ai énormément appris des nouveaux élements que je ne savais pas.
http://www.freedominforex.com. I am trying it now. 3000 started on the 29th of September and the balance is up to 4237.00. I have gained over 200 in interest. And the account keeps growing daily. Once you get the hang of it and try it a few times. You will understand why the owner of the company had 160 percent return in 9 months.
Grazia fino a questo scrivere-up ho enormemente stata insegnata di essi nuove cose che non sapevo non. Grazie, applauso ed anche rispetto.
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Danke für dies Angebote, dies Gebiet hat mich interessé de facto viel. Grace in dies Artikel konnte ich neu entwickelte Sachen viel gelernt, die ich in keiner weise kannte. Danke, bravo und ausserdem Respekt.
Grazia a questo colonna ho abbondantemente avuto l’opportunità di sapere di nuove cose che non sapevo non . Grazie, applauso ed anche rispetto.
Thank you very much. This really helped me with my work. I appreciate your help. Thanks a lot.
Grazia a questo scrivere-up ho enormemente saputo per nuove cose che non sapevo non . Grazie, applauso del resto, rispetto.
Please tell me it worked right? I dont want to sumit it again if i do not have to! Either the blog glitced out or i am an idiot, the second option doesnt surprise me lol. thanks for a great blog!
Danke bezüglich Diese Säule, Thema hat mich wirklich viel gefallen. Grace in Dieses Papier habe ich Wahnsinnig wirklich gelernt Neue Sachen die ich Ich kannte nicht.
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Grazia dentro a questo scrive ho intensamente saputo significando nuove cose quale non sapevo non. Grazie, applauso ma rispetto.
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Grazia da questo blog ho estremamente avuto l’opportunità di sapere per nuove cose quale non sapevo non. Grazie, applauso con rispetto.
Cheers, I hope you have a nice day! Very good article, well written and very thought out. I am looking forward to reading more of your posts in the future.
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Migraine is een ernstige vorm van hoofdpijn. Het treedt in aanvallen op en gaat vaak gepaard met visuele stoornissen en misselijkheid.
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I just wanted to say that I have been watching for a few months on and off and I would like to sign up for the daily feed. I am not to computer smart so I’ll give it a try but I might need some assistance. This is a good find and I would hate to lose touch, and maybe never discover it again.
Anyway, thanks again and I look forward to reading again in the future!
Danke bezüglich Diese Säule,Das Thema hat mich wirklich viele Aufgehangen. Grace in dieser Artikel habe ich Sehr viel gelernt élements neu die ich ignorierte nicht.
Migraine is hoofdpijn die in aanvallen komt. De hoofdpijn komt plotseling op, soms midden in de nacht zodat u er wakker van wordt. De pijn zit meestal aan
Meine Dankeschön Für Diese Säule,Das Enthalten hat mich wirklich viel Aufgehangen. Grace in Diese Säule habe ich Wahnsinnig wirklich gelernt Neue Sachen die ich Ich kannte nicht.
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Hoewel migraine op elke leeftijd voor het eerst kan optreden, begint dit type hoofdpijn meestal tussen de tien en veertig jaar. Bij de meeste mensen treedt
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Danke Für Dieses Papier, unterdrückt hat mich wirklich viel Aufgehangen. Grace in Dieses Papier habe ich Sehr viel gelernt élements neu die ich ignorierte nicht.
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